filmed by JEJ for FACADES

Very much like their heritages (Peachoo Datwani is of Indian origin and Roy Krejberg is Danish) the collection is full of contrasting, even juxtaposed, references and a wide range of elements- furs and feathers being the main events. Satin evening dresses and long gloves struck a welcome feminine cord, set against the predominantly tom-boy feel of biker boots and heavy black coats. Despite the theatrics of the feathered sculptures that models wore down the runway, these are actually very wearable clothes- chic, luxurious, yet with a certain air of winter practicality.

filmed by JEJ for FACADES

The signature collage style seen in his Central Saint Martins grad show (making him a darling of the London fashion scene), once again wowed in it’s AW12 guise. With such a distinct design formula it might be easy to feel a little deja vu for Van Der Ham’s collection yet the element of glossy hollywood glamour (the designer cited Veronica Lake and the Ziegfeld Follies as inspiration) distinguishes it as progression and change. As always, there is a unique feel to each and every garment, they all seem to have their own stories. The collection is almost a kind of fine art, yet this doesn’t stop it from being wearable in the slightest.

filmed by JEJ for FACADES 

Germany based designer Miriam Lehle showed an inventive AW12 collection with texture as the overriding focus. Extreme fringe and weaving, pulled knits and leather applique in abundance created a unique and quite luxurious feel. Many of Lehle’s ideas, and even many of the garments, were brilliant, but the clothes on the runway seemed just a little unrefined. Perhaps this was a simple issue of styling. Nevertheless, Lehle has made herself felt and appreciated.

filmed by JEJ for FACADES

Beginning with a series of looks described by my editor as ‘little house on the Prairie on acid’, outfits became tighter brighter and more revealing as the show progressed. Pam Hogg’s are clothes for rockstars (unsurprising, as she dressed the kings and queens of rock in her heyday) and few else. This doesn’t however take away from their beauty, but maybe appreciation is better made from afar in this case.

filmed by JEJ for FACADES

Singaporean designer Ashley Isham showed moments of genius in his AW12 Show, combing leather and lace with all the skill and subtlety of a master couturier for the last few looks. However, there is something slightly immature about the collection- it is far from consistent and lacks in the level of cutting edge design and quality that we have seen from other London designers this season- perhaps this will come with experience.

filmed by JEJ for FACADES

Taiwanese CSM grad Shao Yen says he was “inspired by the quintessential British style with particular focus on creating a unique twist on formal wear”. He has achieved this masterfully not only in the interesting use of tweeds and knitwear, but in capturing the essence of a uniquely british youth subculture, creating looks reminiscent of London art students. Yen has created a kind of refined art-school chic. Fresh and daring, this collection is a prefect example of what London fashion week is all about.

filmed by JEJ for FACADES

For his AW12 Collection, Malaysian Designer Bernard Chandran took inspiration from the 1940s; models sported over-sized collars and a modern take on the victory roll. The extreme contrast of textures worked well, as did the heavy silver (that looked like car body paint) painted on the front of black coats. But while Chandran has been successful in taking 40s in a different direction, it is disappointing that this collection lacks the innate sense of Luxury and innovation that we have seen from Chandran in the last two seasons.

filmed by JEJ for FACADES 

With 30s inspired demure tea dresses and art deco geometric details, the Dutch sisters Truus and Riet presented an undeniably coherent collection with strong clarity of statement. However, it’s a statement we’ve seen before, using the same references in the same ways as many other womenswear designers have. For sure, the clothes were beautiful, the birds of paradise shoes inspired, but the collection was overall lacking in an individuality and uniqueness that would make you want to wear their clothes.

filmed by JEJ for FACADES

This was an impressive first London show by Lucas Nacimento who hails from Sao Paolo, Brazil. Inspired by the skateboarding culture and graffiti of his home city but committed to cutting clean shapes, Nacimento balances elegance with urban street style flawlessly. The collection is small and sweet- undoubtedly hip, fun and innovative, this was definitely a breath of fresh air in London.