Cedric Charlier SS13
After his time at Cacharel as Creative Director ended last year, Cedric Charlier Today debuted his first Spring/Summer collection for 2013. His second collection since going solo. Working under his own name gives him total creative freedom. His aesthetic is a contrast from the delicate floral prints of Cacharel. Inspired by YSL his aim is to empower women with his designs. Charier’s new collection has a strong direction of sport lux tailoring, in bright whites featuring exposed zips. Pulled together with draping silhouettes, showing an ethnic influence and multi-coloured prints with strong accents of shocking red creates a powerful look. Relaxed brush strokes loosely resembling a check print form the energetic pattern. Models had bright red paint across their brow with hair slick and off the face. An understated sandal was the chosen shoe, worn with leg warmers. Another impressive collection.
Le Moine Tricote Showcasing SS13 collection
Invited for the first time this year to participate in the official schedule of Paris fashion week. Knitwear designer Alice Lemoine, formly working under the wing of Rick Owens showcased her SS13 collection for the label Le Moine Tricote, her own creation. Le Moine Tricote meaning ‘the monk knits’ combines an ancestral technique of hand knitting with a fresh minimalist style. Her latest collection has a delicate feel, with soft hues of blue and natural tones, loose constructions of knitwear against sheer floating fabrics. Each piece is like feminine body armor. Combining a tribal aesthetic with a contemporary construction. There are dresses with knitted plates of armor and lightweight under skirts highlighting the contours of the body. Body skimming skirts in translucent nudes with slouchy loose knit jumpers and panels of colour flattering the female form.
Danielle Romeril
Dublin born Danielle Romeril, having graduated from Royal College of Art London and following her move to Italy where she worked with Alberta Ferretti, we at Facades were keen to see what Danielle had come up with for her debut S/S 13 solo collection at this season's London Fashion Week.
Danielle had taken inspiration from the photography of John Thomson’s ‘China Series’ (1868-1872), adding to this aesthetic, a modern finish and a unique progressive edge. Laser cut leather, silver silk lame and Swarovski crystal pearls, along with geometric The creations show freshness in colour palette, predominantly showing hues such as blue, turquoise, teal, white and silvers, with light touches of orange and pink. Prints have been fused together with three-dimensional structures and sleek silhouettes. The compilation includes mid-length sharp, structured sleeves on tops as well as dresses, with statement jackets, edgy ensembles with quality finishing - a definite benchmark for a 'one-to'watch' .
Kuho Jung AW12-13filmed by JEJ for FACADES
With focus on structural tailoring and statement silhouettes, Kuho Jung has successfully created garments that are both classic and avant garde. With a body-conscious SS12 collection, Jung has transitioned into AW12 placing the same importance on shape- colour takes a secondary role, with a black and grey-heavy palette. A hint of punk sensibility saves it from being another collection concerned simply with a minimalism that we’ve seen many times before.
Lei Sang Bong AW12-13filmed by JEJ for FACADES
Korean Lei Sang Bong covers vast fashion ground in his AW12 show- From a snow-queen white fur-collared coat and cocktail dress to bad-ass biker jackets. While the cuts have a youthful edge, the collection has a sure sense of maturity, the “moody darkness” that Bong set to create is definitely one fit for the grown up woman far beyond her angsty teen-age years. Although the collection is perhaps lacking in the freshest of ideas, an air of luxury sets it apart and Bong has found success in making wearable and flattering clothes.
Allude AW12-13filmed by JEJ for FACADES
The New York based label showed in Paris for the first time this season, but the 70s parisian chic that designer Andrea Karg was trying to achieve seems to have been lost somewhere; I can only describe the collection allude sent down the AW12 runway as bohemian dowdy. While it is a collection that has been done time and time again, Bohemian has plenty more inspiration to be drawn from and it’s disappointing to see more of the same from Karg.
Amaya Arzuaga AW12-13filmed by JEJ for FACADES
Young Spanish designer Amaya Arzuaga has consistently displayed interesting ideas and a spot-on aesthetic. The fall collection comprised of flawlessly tailored coats, intricate pleating details and rich jewel tones against muted greys and blacks. It is a collection that exudes femininity with a strong focus on skirts and dresses (only five of the forty-two looks showed models in separates), yet it isn’t ‘girly’ in the slightest. Symmetric patterns based on butterfly wings and vaguely spider-webbish patters are reminiscent of her fall 2011 collection which drew inspiration from insects. This isn’t to say she is repeating herself; this year she has taken the idea of understated sexy to a whole new level.
Lutz Huelle AW12-13filmed by JEJ for FACADES
Paris-based German designer Lutz Huelle’s named his AW12 collection
"I saw you... walking in the rain" stating that it was “Inspired by watching people covering themselves in a sudden burst of rain – pulling the collar of a jacket closer together, or even up over the head or draping a scarf or sweater over the shoulders”. This translates as painfully hip top heavy silhouettes, ultra-high waists and a collection that exudes cool.
Sharon Wauchob AW12-13filmed by JEJ for FACADES
With sheer pleats, 20s drop-waist dress and fur stoles, Sharon Wauchob’s signature focus on femininity is once again at the forefront in her AW12 show. As a collection it is impeccable, different delicate elements and looks work together creating something that is, put simply, very very beautiful. It is a strong, focused and well realized collection; a fine example of the Wauchob’s potential to make hers the next huge name in womenswear.
