MING PIN TIEN SS'13
filmed by JEJ for FACADES
Ming Pin Tien was one of the hottest tickets at the London Shows. We were not only lucky to attend his catwalk show, we were also treated to meet him at the ensuing exhibit, where we were able to peruse, feel, smell, ooh and ahhh at his creations which were amongst the most Londonesque (for lack of a better word) of all the clothes we had seen. What makes it more meaningful and startling is how a Taiwanese-born designer is able to inject his culture into his exquisite works whilst rendering them quintessentially, undoubtably English. The piece that most astounded me: a hybrid coat in thick strips of leather constructed in the manner of ancient Chinese military armour, patterned after the quintessential English trench, replete with a tailored raglan sleeve. What a talent.
DAKS SS'13filmed by JEJ for FACADES
The 90s were alive and well. Impeccable grooming. With every piece having an occasion at which to be worn. Each model wore their outfits as their own and I personally know women who will blithely have a go at each outfit. As a prêt-à-porter collection, this is beyond reproach in terms of fit, timelessness and value. The fall of the garments is poetic and faultless. Some of the best shoes of the London collections, too. Not bad, at all.
CORRIE NIELSEN SS'13filmed by JEJ for FACADES
Corrie Nielsen commenced her collection with a definite nod to the decade of the 40s. The pieces that followed shortly thereafter eclipsed the 40s tailoring with her penchant for volume for volume's sake. For pieces that were lauded to be both steeped in tailoring and engineered precision, it was a bit of a chore to see the wearer's body gracefully undulating within. The collection's strongest points, aside from the sumptuous fabrics, were the full-length silk coats. The final gown, I'm guessing Victorian-inspired, did nothing for the wearer or the beholder.
Le Moine Tricote Showcasing SS13 collection |  |
Invited for the first time this year to participate in the official schedule of Paris fashion week. Knitwear designer Alice Lemoine, formly working under the wing of Rick Owens showcased her SS13 collection for the label Le Moine Tricote, her own creation. Le Moine Tricote meaning ‘the monk knits’ combines an ancestral technique of hand knitting with a fresh minimalist style. Her latest collection has a delicate feel, with soft hues of blue and natural tones, loose constructions of knitwear against sheer floating fabrics. Each piece is like feminine body armor. Combining a tribal aesthetic with a contemporary construction. There are dresses with knitted plates of armor and lightweight under skirts highlighting the contours of the body. Body skimming skirts in translucent nudes with slouchy loose knit jumpers and panels of colour flattering the female form.
YIFANG WAN SS'13filmed by JEJ for FACADES
The dark, medium gauge fabrics threw me off at first glance until I realised that they were the perfect vehicle for the kind of clothes that this winsome designer was trying to convey. Monastic with a definite nod to martial arts, the overall theme was utilitarian yet far from staid. A pleasure to behold were a collection of long, panelled tunics that danced over and around straight and generously cut trousers. How Wan was able to pull these looks off without weighing down its comfortable wearers are an affirmation to her understanding of the marriage of culture, wearability and a healthy dose of what she considers pretty to her eye...and what an eye she possesses.
Just as strong as her long, layered tunics, were her take on pantsuits. Well cut trousers, topped by blouses, impeccably proportioned, were tied together with belts that were so fresh, so modern, that it would have taken a second look to realise that they, too, were of that monastic, martial, artistic mien. Yifang Wan, with all her Eastern leanings, crossed all the borders and into new frontiers.
JOHN ROCHA SS'13filmed by JEJ for FACADES
Mr. Rocha is a stalwart of British fashion. Loved and respected by a staunch, and loyal following, he has yet to disappoint. His palettes may have been inspired by places visited and by colours which may have moved him at the moment, but they didn't detract from the Rocha trademark: feminine bodices, skirts swathed in volumes of fabric which magically, almost supernaturally, failed in weighing them down. These volumes floated quietly down the runway in that trademark deft handling. Masses of fabric, three dimensional embellishments, at times supported by gravity-defyng underpinnings, were held together and controlled by John Rocha's mastery of structured tailoring that was at once airy and preeminently comfortable. One of my favourite pieces was a drop-crotched jumpsuit in brown. Done in countless ways by most houses, Mr. Rocha showed us his hand with it. And what a sure hand it is. You bet, we scrambled to the front rows of this most beloved and well attended show.
