filmed by JEJ for FACADES

This was an impressive first London show by Lucas Nacimento who hails from Sao Paolo, Brazil. Inspired by the skateboarding culture and graffiti of his home city but committed to cutting clean shapes, Nacimento balances elegance with urban street style flawlessly. The collection is small and sweet- undoubtedly hip, fun and innovative, this was definitely a breath of fresh air in London.

filmed by JEJ for FACADES

The presentation that featured the girls life-drawing from nude models mirrored the classic cuts, body-consciousness and artistry of the garments they were wearing. The young designers of Draw in Light Polly Wilkinson and Harry Barford have succeeded in creating a new kind of effortless style: There is an innate and understated luxury- they print with free-hand silk-screen techniques making each garment individual. The collection is filled with timeless dresses, their value and uniqueness immediately apparent.

filmed by JEJ for FACADES

It was disappointing to discover that Brown has moved away from delightful and refined feminine detail this season- perhaps she was trying to display a more wearable aspect of her design repertoire. Indeed she has achieved this with a collection of 60s inspired smocks and shifts, but maybe overly so. They are so wearable they no longer seem special or high fashion. It was surprising to learn that Brown was inspired by the V&As Quilts 1700-2010 exhibition as there was so much more inspiration to be drawn and developed.

filmed by JEJ for FACADES

For AW12 Bruno Basso and Christopher Brooke drew inspiration from Matisse’s paper cuts period. The mixing- clashing, even- of prints is frenzied with a disregard for symmetry. Jackets, skirts and collars cut at clean angels gave the collection a paper-like feel- both youthful and charming. It was perhaps a feat by the stylist that the clothes, despite prints and colours that verged on garish, actually seem to be very wearable and quite fun.

filmed by JEJ for FACADES

Strong and extremely sexy, Krystof Stronzyna’s collection is play between masculine and feminine, taking inspiration from Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde. Body-Conscious thigh high slits, ultra-short skirts, soft silhouettes contrasted with masculine collars, capes and suit jackets. The AW12 Strozyna woman is subtly seductive, a femme fatale perhaps. The collection is pitch perfect; wearability, sex-appeal and a high-fashion edge maintained throughout.

filmed by JEJ for FACADES

In Corrie Neilsen’s AW12 ‘Vestiarium Scoticum’, the designer looked to her heritage creating a history of scottish dress, with details and nuances rooting the collection firmly in 2012. With projected hips and tented skirts, Neilsen sculpts silhouettes that have a kind of architectural brilliance: Yet it has a refreshing simplicity in that only combinations of white black and tartan (used in a revolutionary way) that makes the collection down to earth and wearable.  There is a quality and craftsmanship in Neilsen’s work that, along with her distinctly british edge, brings to mind Vivienne Westwood and McQueen. I’m sure we can expect much from Neilsen in the future.

filmed by JEJ for FACADES

Antoni Burakowski and Alison Roberts bright silk screen-printed AW12 collection was undoubtedly one of the sweetest collections to come out of London. Truly innovative, the designers take a simple technique (screen printing) and remind us just how much fun can be had with it. Tromp l’oeil ruffles, staples, printed dogtooth and knits, a literal collage on paper effect is created simply cut dresses. These are modern classics.